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He talks about bluing salts at some point, perhaps in another video. If i need to quench vertically, i have a few questions regarding volume Anyone able to explain the ingredients of this goop

It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax/boiled lineseed oil/gum turpentine) If i am trying to keep a degree of authenticity, i might use the raw product. I happened to already have those ingredients

It has quite a potent smell it didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax

I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail Can you guess what i'm thinking of I guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard I have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against.

I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of goddard's goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax Sets up solid at room temperature, and i usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades. The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and /or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes I'll get a better edge quench without it

I'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined.

You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off Apparently they had glue like that in the bronze age It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart

The japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira) The japanese call it nikawa. Is the smoke/goop from the mig welder getting in between the layers Finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld

If you're using flux and smacking it really hard to get the flux out, you may be blowing the weld apart on impact

Gentle taps until you know it's solid. Most of what is available is mixed with blo and has drying agents You can still get raw tung, you just need to search it out So yeah, depends on what you are doing

If i'm mixing up some handle goop for modern style knives i use blo

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